Angry Doctor On Call: Your most-asked skincare questions, answered
Turns out skincare is confusing. Who knew? I did. In fact, it’s one of the main reasons I went ahead and created Angry Doctor. This brand was created to educate our community about using active skincare for life and to provide very high-quality products at an affordable price. It’s pretty simple – I took the best, science-backed active ingredients and placed them into two key products: Morning Bright (a vitamin C serum) and Young Night (a retinal cream). I know people are short on time and the skincare industry can feel overwhelming, not to mention there’s A LOT of noise/products/advice/ingredients. If I can make looking after your skin a little less complicated I’ve done my job – and if I can answer your questions while I do it, even better! Below are some of your most pressing skincare-related questions, answered. And there’s plenty more where these came from.
1. Are we supposed to exfoliate while using Angry Doctor products?
Great question! Exfoliation as a concept is a good thing to discuss. Let’s get scientific. It's a fact that the skin on the inside of our mouth is the same as the skin on the outside of our cheek with one exception: the outside skin has adapted to its dry environment by producing a large amount of keratin. The cellular outer layer of the skin is mostly made up of keratinocytes; these cells undergo a process called cornification. Essentially, the skin cells manufacture a large amount of keratin protein which accumulates in the cell. Gradually the cell dies a programmed death, killed by the process of completely filling up with keratin. When it dies, the keratin protein merges with the keratin in the surrounding dying cells to form a hard waxy and highly waterproof surface. This is what we see as our skin: a waxy, hard layer entirely composed of dead cells that waterproof us. Without this layer, we would not be able to survive on Earth in our dry environment. We are constantly shedding and replacing this layer. So, to your question, exfoliation simply cleans off the loose and flaky outer layer of our skin making it look and feel better and refreshed. What does the science say? Exfoliation might have a small benefit in making our active products slightly more effective but the jury is out (and if you’re not exfoliating that’s fine). If you do want to exfoliate because you like how it makes your skin feel – and you’re in the market for a great cleanser – then give Clean Right a go: it cleanses and exfoliates in one go.
2. What order should I apply my products in the morning and night?
Active products should be the first things on your skin after cleansing or exfoliating. Angry Doctor is formulated with all the actives you need for optimal skin health into a morning product and a night product, so there’s no need to remember a 12-step routine. All that matters is you just do it! Actives first, makeup or sunscreen on top. If you do want to incorporate Angry Doctor into an existing routine, just remember to apply your most active products first before a serum or moisturiser.
3. Should I wait to apply different products in a row?
My products are designed to be worn on their own. Why? Because I packed in multiple actives to save you time and money (although SPF is a MUST after applying Morning Bright). But if you wish to apply different products in a row then go for it. Be sure to apply your actives first (ideally to clean skin – I’ve got a cleanser to help you out there) and if time permits, wait a few minutes before applying your next layer. My products play well with sunscreen, moisturisers, primers and makeup.
4. I've never used retinal before, how should I begin incorporating it into my routine?
The general advice given for retinol, retinal and retinoic acid is to start slow because they're harsh on your skin until you adapt to them. However, we've worked hard to make a retinoic acid product usable and easy to tolerate on the skin. We chose the retinal form as it's powerful but well tolerated. So, if you’ve got sensitive skin I’d suggest starting slowly: apply small amounts rubbed in well every second night for a week or two, then every night and see how you go. If you get too much initial dryness, use less. If you get redness and it feels irritating, you're not allergic – you're just using too much. Over time, i.e. a month or so of use, you'll find your skin starts to like retinal and you’ll notice results. With long-term use, you'll discover how much you need to use for best results. Your skin will let you know, so listen to it.
5. What's the difference between 'Light' and 'Rich’?
Another great question! The main difference is in the formulation of the base in the product carrying the active molecules that absorb into the skin once you apply it. There are very slight differences in the strength of the actives, but this doesn't matter. The product is not helping you if it's in the bottle. It's only helping you if it's being applied to your skin and absorbed into your cells, improving your skin health. And you won't use it if your skin doesn't tolerate it well. When it comes to Young Night, I’d recommend the ‘Rich’ version if you regularly use vitamin A (i.e. retinol), have oily skin or experience acne. This version contains a higher strength retinal and glycolic acid to address these concerns. Whereas the ‘Light’ version, while still highly effective, contains slightly lower strengths which makes it ideal for those who want anti-ageing benefits but don't have problematic skin. For Morning Bright, I’d recommend trying the ‘Rich’ you’re more on the drier skin side – it’s a little thicker and leaves skin feeling more hydrated. Reach for the ‘Light’ version if you’re more on the oily skin side, as it’s lightweight and fast-absorbing. You might also find it comes down to the amount of product you apply. If you want to opt for ‘Rich’ in both Morning Bright and Young Night, you can always apply a very small amount of each to begin with and see how your skin likes the formulas. Bottom line: everyone is different – there are no rules here, only starting points. Whatever combination works for you is fine. Stick with it. And listen to your skin.
6. How long after I open the bottle does it expire?
You’ll notice our bottles are airless which is quite a unique selling point, might I add. This means they don’t have a set expiry date once opened. That’s not the only great thing about airless bottles – by keeping them airtight, all those potent active ingredients remain effective and stable so they can do their best work. But the fun doesn’t stop there. The bottle’s internal pump allows you to use up all the product – down to the very last drop – so there’s zero wastage.
